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How to dress like a gentleman- A guide on the style of underwear of the true English gentleman
STYLE
There is a old saying that goes something like, “Show me your underwear and I will tell you who
you are”. An April 1935 edition of Men’s Wear developed the theme considerably: “Underwear
should have the presence of Apollo, the romance of Byron, the distinction of Lord Chesterfield and
the ease, coolness and comfort of Mahatma Ghandi.”
Behind this inspirational outburst was “sensational news of a new kind of garment” that had been
reported in The American trade press in the previous year. These were knitted underpants of
cotton devised by a firm named Coopers and modeled upon bathing trunks firs seen on the
French Riviera in 1932. Although with several inches of leg, It was audaciously form-fitting and it
offered the ‘gentle support’ of a Y-shaped front panel. Here was something excitingly new, with
“elastic fabric, no buttons, no bulk, no binding…”!
BRIEFS
Coopers became Jockey and by 1949 was advertising its patented ‘Y-front’ construction of knitted
underwear as “scientifically perfected for correct masculine support”. The loin-fitting shorts
became waist briefs in the 1950s, and the needs of tight jeans allied with designer zeal advanced
the cause with abbreviated hip-briefs, scanty sports-briefs, mini-briefs, scooped-out T-briefs and
tinier still Tanga, not to mention ‘posing pouches’. Sensible gentleman express their gratitude to
America for the Y-front, and leave it at that.
BOXER SHORTS
The return to looser trousers has been accompanied by a welcome return of loose shorts, which
even in the tightest of times never went out of favour with some gentlemen. The trunks of prize-
fighters served as prototype for this type of underpants, which were another contribution of 1930s
America to gentlemanly comfort. Boxer shorts should be generously cut and ‘roomy’ at the back,
without a middle seam. They may be made of woven or knitted fabric.
VESTS
The compelling charms of Clark Gable’s bare torso notwithstanding, vests retain a place in the
wardrobe of a gentleman. Properly, a vest should be sleeved (short or long) and have a round
neck. It should be cut longer at the back than the front and slightly higher at the sides.
SLEEVELESS VEST (SINGLET)
This style with comfortably cut-out armholes should also be longer at the back than the front. It
may have a round neck or the so-called trapeze cut. It may be joined to the underpants and would
have an absolutely smooth finish to the seams and flies, double-layered rear and front sections,
finely bound edges to the leg sections and a band which will retain its elasticity throughout the life
of the garment.
A quality vest has tightly finished seam-ends and smooth, flat binding.
There is a old saying that goes something like, “Show me your underwear and I will tell you who
you are”. An April 1935 edition of Men’s Wear developed the theme considerably: “Underwear
should have the presence of Apollo, the romance of Byron, the distinction of Lord Chesterfield and
the ease, coolness and comfort of Mahatma Ghandi.”
Behind this inspirational outburst was “sensational news of a new kind of garment” that had been
reported in The American trade press in the previous year. These were knitted underpants of
cotton devised by a firm named Coopers and modeled upon bathing trunks firs seen on the
French Riviera in 1932. Although with several inches of leg, It was audaciously form-fitting and it
offered the ‘gentle support’ of a Y-shaped front panel. Here was something excitingly new, with
“elastic fabric, no buttons, no bulk, no binding…”!
BRIEFS
Coopers became Jockey and by 1949 was advertising its patented ‘Y-front’ construction of knitted
underwear as “scientifically perfected for correct masculine support”. The loin-fitting shorts
became waist briefs in the 1950s, and the needs of tight jeans allied with designer zeal advanced
the cause with abbreviated hip-briefs, scanty sports-briefs, mini-briefs, scooped-out T-briefs and
tinier still Tanga, not to mention ‘posing pouches’. Sensible gentleman express their gratitude to
America for the Y-front, and leave it at that.
BOXER SHORTS
The return to looser trousers has been accompanied by a welcome return of loose shorts, which
even in the tightest of times never went out of favour with some gentlemen. The trunks of prize-
fighters served as prototype for this type of underpants, which were another contribution of 1930s
America to gentlemanly comfort. Boxer shorts should be generously cut and ‘roomy’ at the back,
without a middle seam. They may be made of woven or knitted fabric.
VESTS
The compelling charms of Clark Gable’s bare torso notwithstanding, vests retain a place in the
wardrobe of a gentleman. Properly, a vest should be sleeved (short or long) and have a round
neck. It should be cut longer at the back than the front and slightly higher at the sides.
SLEEVELESS VEST (SINGLET)
This style with comfortably cut-out armholes should also be longer at the back than the front. It
may have a round neck or the so-called trapeze cut. It may be joined to the underpants and would
have an absolutely smooth finish to the seams and flies, double-layered rear and front sections,
finely bound edges to the leg sections and a band which will retain its elasticity throughout the life
of the garment.
A quality vest has tightly finished seam-ends and smooth, flat binding.
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