How to dress like a gentleman- A guide on the style of trouser worn by the true gentleman
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
STYLE
Creases were not generally adopted until the invention of the trouser press in the 1890s, and as late
as 1934 George V persisted in having his trousers creased sideways (in respect for an old navy
style) instead of fore-and-aft like his subjects. Turn-ups, ’cuffs’ to the trade, also first became popular
in the 1890s, after years of occasional experimentation.
Innumerable legends foster the assumption that crease and cuff are royal inventions. One of the
most fetching of these tales has the future Edward VII falling from his horse into a ditch and being
carried into a cottage to rest while his clothes are dried; in a state of nerves bordering upon panic,
the cottager irons the trousers to a sharp crease and the surprising result so pleases the prince that
he, and consequently the rest of the world , iron creases into their trousers from that time forth.
Other stories attribute the invention of the turn-up to the same clothes-conscious royal, again
through an act of forgetfulness. One version has Edward turning up the bottoms of his trouser-legs to
protect them while crossing a muddy field, then absentmindedly returning to London with trousers still
rolled; his loyal subjects take this to be a style indicator and soon the entire world is following suit.
Nothing of the sort ever happened , yet in both cases royal adoption of a new mode was crucial to its
mass acceptance. In the case of creases, the crucial moment can be pin-pointed to the sensation of
the 1886 Derby, when the elegantly frock-coated Edward appeared in a pair of grey trousers with
sharply-ironed creases. Turn-ups had a more insidious aspect to their adoption- the subconscious
notion born of the muddy-field scenario that here was a city gentleman with interests (i.e. property
and therefore wealth) in the country.
Tradition further credits Edward VII with the invention of the trouser pleat, again erroneously. The top-
pleat, or fold, was hardly seen until the beginning of the 20th century, when trousers became larger
and the insertion of pleats contributed to their neater management.
Savile Row tailors were unsettled by this development to the point at which Edward’s namesake and
grandson, the future Edward VIII, in the 1920s denounced in public the baggy, unpleated trousers of
his personal cutter, the mighty Scholte, and favoured in their place a trimmer American design.
This action exerted a powerful influence on trouser style through the rest of the century.
The same prince was quick to adopt the newfangled zip fastener in place of the buttoned fly, thereby
giving the royal nod to this audacious development of the mid-1930s, fifty years after the invention of
the zipper.
FIT AND CUT
Creases have by now become so permanent a feature as to be taken for granted, but all else about
trousers remains a matter of subtly shifting style and discretionary taste.
Apart from the size of the leg, the cut varies according to whether the waist is set high or low, and
whether the trousers are intended to be supported by a belt, or by braces, or by a choice of both. Fit
is all important, to the extent that the wearer’s characteristic posture-strut, slouch, or whatever- needs
ideally to be studied, and allowances built into the cut.
A choice has to be made between having pleats and doing without them. Affording as they do a
comfortable, wider cut, pleated trousers set the standard in classic menswear. Pleats anchor the line
and facilitate and elegant fall to the garment, even if stressed by hands slung into the pockets. There
is a further choice between single and double pleats, and between making the fold inwards or
outwards: there is no ’right way.’
Nothing is more subject to ‘fashion’ excess than the width of the leg. Trim without being tight should
always be the objective, with three-quarters the length of the shoe the general rule. As for leg length,
the trouser needs to break slightly over the instep of the shoe. Trousers without turn-ups should be
cut slightly longer at the back.
True to the rural ambiance of their origin, turn-ups must never be seen on formal wear, since they
convey, still, an air of sporty casualness. They should ordinarily rise approximately three to four
centimeters. Shorter gentleman may choose a narrower rise, or dispense with turn-ups altogether.
Side pockets need to be deep, for practical purposes and because this contributes to a smooth line.
Button flies have the weight of tradition behind them, but are laborious to attend to. Trousers with zips
tend to hang better and crease less.
Quality trousers should come fitted with a half-lining, which contributes to a better drape while
improving both comfort and durability.
FAUX PAS
Formal suits with turn-ups
Double-breasted suits without turn-ups
Casual ‘separates’ without turn-ups
MATERIAL AND MATCH
The classic pair of grey flannel trousers makes a perfect match for both blazer and tweed jacket.
Cotton trousers in solid colours and sports jackets are another traditional combination.
A discreet check combines well with a blazer. Colourful casual trousers goes well with a jersey or
blouson.
A remarkable variety of trouser materials work well with the navy blazer. They include flannel, cavalry
twill, tropical worsted, linen, and white duck, which though derived from doek (Dutch for canvas) is
made of cotton.
Cavalry twill, a durable woolen or worsted cloth with a diagonal rib, was as its name implies use
primarily for riding wear before being adopted for sports trousers and even tow-piece suits. Bedford
cord is another excellent trouser material with military antecedents. A sturdy, closely-woven woolen,
cotton or blended fabric with a raised cord effect, it was first used to make uniforms for the Bedford
Militia, which explains the name.
For all its versatility, flannel has a marked tendency to wear out in zones of friction, in particular in the
area of the seat. The effect is most marked in the case of very robust gentlemen, who are best
advised to choose other fabrics.
Creases were not generally adopted until the invention of the trouser press in the 1890s, and as late
as 1934 George V persisted in having his trousers creased sideways (in respect for an old navy
style) instead of fore-and-aft like his subjects. Turn-ups, ’cuffs’ to the trade, also first became popular
in the 1890s, after years of occasional experimentation.
Innumerable legends foster the assumption that crease and cuff are royal inventions. One of the
most fetching of these tales has the future Edward VII falling from his horse into a ditch and being
carried into a cottage to rest while his clothes are dried; in a state of nerves bordering upon panic,
the cottager irons the trousers to a sharp crease and the surprising result so pleases the prince that
he, and consequently the rest of the world , iron creases into their trousers from that time forth.
Other stories attribute the invention of the turn-up to the same clothes-conscious royal, again
through an act of forgetfulness. One version has Edward turning up the bottoms of his trouser-legs to
protect them while crossing a muddy field, then absentmindedly returning to London with trousers still
rolled; his loyal subjects take this to be a style indicator and soon the entire world is following suit.
Nothing of the sort ever happened , yet in both cases royal adoption of a new mode was crucial to its
mass acceptance. In the case of creases, the crucial moment can be pin-pointed to the sensation of
the 1886 Derby, when the elegantly frock-coated Edward appeared in a pair of grey trousers with
sharply-ironed creases. Turn-ups had a more insidious aspect to their adoption- the subconscious
notion born of the muddy-field scenario that here was a city gentleman with interests (i.e. property
and therefore wealth) in the country.
Tradition further credits Edward VII with the invention of the trouser pleat, again erroneously. The top-
pleat, or fold, was hardly seen until the beginning of the 20th century, when trousers became larger
and the insertion of pleats contributed to their neater management.
Savile Row tailors were unsettled by this development to the point at which Edward’s namesake and
grandson, the future Edward VIII, in the 1920s denounced in public the baggy, unpleated trousers of
his personal cutter, the mighty Scholte, and favoured in their place a trimmer American design.
This action exerted a powerful influence on trouser style through the rest of the century.
The same prince was quick to adopt the newfangled zip fastener in place of the buttoned fly, thereby
giving the royal nod to this audacious development of the mid-1930s, fifty years after the invention of
the zipper.
FIT AND CUT
Creases have by now become so permanent a feature as to be taken for granted, but all else about
trousers remains a matter of subtly shifting style and discretionary taste.
Apart from the size of the leg, the cut varies according to whether the waist is set high or low, and
whether the trousers are intended to be supported by a belt, or by braces, or by a choice of both. Fit
is all important, to the extent that the wearer’s characteristic posture-strut, slouch, or whatever- needs
ideally to be studied, and allowances built into the cut.
A choice has to be made between having pleats and doing without them. Affording as they do a
comfortable, wider cut, pleated trousers set the standard in classic menswear. Pleats anchor the line
and facilitate and elegant fall to the garment, even if stressed by hands slung into the pockets. There
is a further choice between single and double pleats, and between making the fold inwards or
outwards: there is no ’right way.’
Nothing is more subject to ‘fashion’ excess than the width of the leg. Trim without being tight should
always be the objective, with three-quarters the length of the shoe the general rule. As for leg length,
the trouser needs to break slightly over the instep of the shoe. Trousers without turn-ups should be
cut slightly longer at the back.
True to the rural ambiance of their origin, turn-ups must never be seen on formal wear, since they
convey, still, an air of sporty casualness. They should ordinarily rise approximately three to four
centimeters. Shorter gentleman may choose a narrower rise, or dispense with turn-ups altogether.
Side pockets need to be deep, for practical purposes and because this contributes to a smooth line.
Button flies have the weight of tradition behind them, but are laborious to attend to. Trousers with zips
tend to hang better and crease less.
Quality trousers should come fitted with a half-lining, which contributes to a better drape while
improving both comfort and durability.
FAUX PAS
Formal suits with turn-ups
Double-breasted suits without turn-ups
Casual ‘separates’ without turn-ups
MATERIAL AND MATCH
The classic pair of grey flannel trousers makes a perfect match for both blazer and tweed jacket.
Cotton trousers in solid colours and sports jackets are another traditional combination.
A discreet check combines well with a blazer. Colourful casual trousers goes well with a jersey or
blouson.
A remarkable variety of trouser materials work well with the navy blazer. They include flannel, cavalry
twill, tropical worsted, linen, and white duck, which though derived from doek (Dutch for canvas) is
made of cotton.
Cavalry twill, a durable woolen or worsted cloth with a diagonal rib, was as its name implies use
primarily for riding wear before being adopted for sports trousers and even tow-piece suits. Bedford
cord is another excellent trouser material with military antecedents. A sturdy, closely-woven woolen,
cotton or blended fabric with a raised cord effect, it was first used to make uniforms for the Bedford
Militia, which explains the name.
For all its versatility, flannel has a marked tendency to wear out in zones of friction, in particular in the
area of the seat. The effect is most marked in the case of very robust gentlemen, who are best
advised to choose other fabrics.
 |
| |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| If you have any reservations don't hesitate to contact us via email or telephone. © 2001-2008 Don's Footwear Online. All rights reserved. Elevator shoes can increase your height Return Policy Security Contact Us Elevator shoes |