How to dress like a gentleman- A guide on the history & Style of the morning suit worn by the gentleman
MORNING SUIT
HISTORY
The morning coat, the tailcoat of daytime, made its appearance in the 1890s, adapted from a much
earlier design and promoted as a dressy, yet less formal alternative to the frock coat. Already it had
its distinctive curved-back ‘skirt’, initially with three to four buttons instead of just one. This was
strictly business attire. It gradually assumed its present duties after the frock coat died out with the
Great War.
STYLE
In its original role, the morning suit took two forms- a black coat with striped or checked trousers
and contrasting waistcoat, or a fully matching three-piece suit. It still takes two forms- black, with
striped trousers and grey waistcoat, or completely light grey. The all-grey effect, Top hat included,
was once an exclusive feature of the Royal Enclosure at Ascot and Derby Day at Epsom. Now it
lends distinction to many a summer wedding, though it must be said that gentlemen generally look
better in black and that the all-grey suit is unknown on the Continent.
Americans and Germans call the morning coat a ‘cutaway’. To the Italians, it is a ‘tight’, a term with
which some unfortunates may concur. Since morning suits are generally hired these days, the
priority must be to ensure that jacket and waistcoat allow breathing room and still have a balanced
fit.
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