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GLEN CHECK
Also known as Glenurquhart, this is one of the ‘district checks’ originally livery designs for 19th
century Scottish landowners. It was a favourite of Edward VIII when Prince of Wales. It is most often
in black and white and is suitable for daytime and business suits.
SAXONY
This milled twill from carded yarns is usually rendered as a Glencheck. It is more woolly and rough
than a worsted and can be classified at the finest end of the tweed spectrum. The firm, closely-
woven cloth often features a silk stripe and makes a smart suiting for town as well as country.
TWEED
The generic name for a very wide variety of stubbly coarse woolen cloths, typically of multicoloured
carded yarns and twill construction. The name was born out of a clerical error. A scribbled invoice
for some bolts of Scottish ‘tweel’ was misread as ‘tweed’, and so it has renamed, to be regularly
misassociated with the river of that name.
Tweel was a Scots rendering of twill, and the cloth so-named was a heavy homespun cloth that had
been woven for centuries in Scotland and which was beginning to take the fancy of London gentry ,
who came upon it on their shooting and fishing trips up north. The royal association with Balmoral
did the rest. Tweed clothing became tweeds, and important element of leisure wear.
Irish tweeds tend to be the more colourful, with large patterns, whereas Scottish tweed patterns tend
towards the very small. The most famous tweed is Harris tweed, rugged as the island it came from ,
and still does if bearing the famous Orb Mark of the Harris Tweed Association. It is very bulky, for
hard country wear. Shetland is much softer and finer; with a loose texture, it creates sports clothing
of character, though less endurance.
CHEVIOT
Very hard wearing , grainy and yet with a luster, this tweed type in a fishbone-patterned weave is
one of the heavier of classic cloths. It was originally produced exclusively from wool of the Cheviot
breed.
Also known as Glenurquhart, this is one of the ‘district checks’ originally livery designs for 19th
century Scottish landowners. It was a favourite of Edward VIII when Prince of Wales. It is most often
in black and white and is suitable for daytime and business suits.
SAXONY
This milled twill from carded yarns is usually rendered as a Glencheck. It is more woolly and rough
than a worsted and can be classified at the finest end of the tweed spectrum. The firm, closely-
woven cloth often features a silk stripe and makes a smart suiting for town as well as country.
TWEED
The generic name for a very wide variety of stubbly coarse woolen cloths, typically of multicoloured
carded yarns and twill construction. The name was born out of a clerical error. A scribbled invoice
for some bolts of Scottish ‘tweel’ was misread as ‘tweed’, and so it has renamed, to be regularly
misassociated with the river of that name.
Tweel was a Scots rendering of twill, and the cloth so-named was a heavy homespun cloth that had
been woven for centuries in Scotland and which was beginning to take the fancy of London gentry ,
who came upon it on their shooting and fishing trips up north. The royal association with Balmoral
did the rest. Tweed clothing became tweeds, and important element of leisure wear.
Irish tweeds tend to be the more colourful, with large patterns, whereas Scottish tweed patterns tend
towards the very small. The most famous tweed is Harris tweed, rugged as the island it came from ,
and still does if bearing the famous Orb Mark of the Harris Tweed Association. It is very bulky, for
hard country wear. Shetland is much softer and finer; with a loose texture, it creates sports clothing
of character, though less endurance.
CHEVIOT
Very hard wearing , grainy and yet with a luster, this tweed type in a fishbone-patterned weave is
one of the heavier of classic cloths. It was originally produced exclusively from wool of the Cheviot
breed.
PLAID
Boxlike patterns with bright and dark checks produced by the cross-hatching of yarn-dyed fibres. In
sufficiently sober checks, particularly in black and white, they make ideal suit patterns. Plaids also
include Scottish tartans.
GABARDINE
A Smooth, cloth in fine to medium worsted yarns that is so tightly woven it is soil-resistant and
almost water-resistant. The twill rig is pronounced due to a weave with more warp threads than weft.
It is usually in solid colours. This cloth is a popular suiting for all uses, including formal dress, but it
is wise to check on the quality since this can vary.
TROPICAL
A Plain-weave worsted made with high-twist two-play yarn. An airy suiting for summer wear and hot
climates, light and yet sturdy and crease-resistant.
COTTON
Unless one subscribes to theories of a prehistoric global culture, cotton cultivation developed
separately in the Middle East and South America very long ago. The name derives from the Arabic
qutn and some cotton fabrics still bear the names of Asian cities with which they were identified.
Cotton is a tender plant requiring a moisture-retain-ing soil and 200 frost-free days, at the end of
which the seed pod bursts open to reveal a tangled mass of fluffy fibres – raw cotton.
The Moors introduced cotton to Spain and returning Crusaders spread it further. East India
Company imports of Oriental fabrics completed the job, but cotton production was necessarily
limited until the invention in 1793 of the cotton gin, a machine that vastly reduced the labour of
separating the seeds from the cotton’boll’.
Cotton clothes are durable and practical: they absorb perspiration. Do not irritate the skin, and can
be washed repeatedly without damage. Cotton tolerates detergents and high temperatures – on the
ironing-board, for instance – and it dyes easily. Against this, it creases and is not particularly
warming. Treatments developed in the 19th century greatly improved its usefulness.
Cotton quality is determined by the length of the raw fibre, or staple. The best cottons come from
southern Egypt and islands in the Caribbean region-the so-called Sea Island cotton, of which a
variety known as Superfine St Vincent has fibres that can reach 50mm or more.
SEERSUCKER
This hot-weather suiting popular with Americans derives its name from a corruption of a Hindi
phrase meaning ‘milk and sugar’ and was made with silk when first discovered by the British in India.
The puckered rough-smooth texture is attained by alternating the tension in the fibres.
VELVET
The name comes from vellus, Latin for fleece. Once exclusively made of silk, it is has a short, thick
pile fabric. In plain or twill weave. it is used for jackets in the main.
CORDUROY
This familiar thick-ribbed fabric with a cut-pile sur-face is woven with sunken lines running
lengthwise. The origin of the name, thought often taken to be a corruption of French, is uncertain.
Boxlike patterns with bright and dark checks produced by the cross-hatching of yarn-dyed fibres. In
sufficiently sober checks, particularly in black and white, they make ideal suit patterns. Plaids also
include Scottish tartans.
GABARDINE
A Smooth, cloth in fine to medium worsted yarns that is so tightly woven it is soil-resistant and
almost water-resistant. The twill rig is pronounced due to a weave with more warp threads than weft.
It is usually in solid colours. This cloth is a popular suiting for all uses, including formal dress, but it
is wise to check on the quality since this can vary.
TROPICAL
A Plain-weave worsted made with high-twist two-play yarn. An airy suiting for summer wear and hot
climates, light and yet sturdy and crease-resistant.
COTTON
Unless one subscribes to theories of a prehistoric global culture, cotton cultivation developed
separately in the Middle East and South America very long ago. The name derives from the Arabic
qutn and some cotton fabrics still bear the names of Asian cities with which they were identified.
Cotton is a tender plant requiring a moisture-retain-ing soil and 200 frost-free days, at the end of
which the seed pod bursts open to reveal a tangled mass of fluffy fibres – raw cotton.
The Moors introduced cotton to Spain and returning Crusaders spread it further. East India
Company imports of Oriental fabrics completed the job, but cotton production was necessarily
limited until the invention in 1793 of the cotton gin, a machine that vastly reduced the labour of
separating the seeds from the cotton’boll’.
Cotton clothes are durable and practical: they absorb perspiration. Do not irritate the skin, and can
be washed repeatedly without damage. Cotton tolerates detergents and high temperatures – on the
ironing-board, for instance – and it dyes easily. Against this, it creases and is not particularly
warming. Treatments developed in the 19th century greatly improved its usefulness.
Cotton quality is determined by the length of the raw fibre, or staple. The best cottons come from
southern Egypt and islands in the Caribbean region-the so-called Sea Island cotton, of which a
variety known as Superfine St Vincent has fibres that can reach 50mm or more.
SEERSUCKER
This hot-weather suiting popular with Americans derives its name from a corruption of a Hindi
phrase meaning ‘milk and sugar’ and was made with silk when first discovered by the British in India.
The puckered rough-smooth texture is attained by alternating the tension in the fibres.
VELVET
The name comes from vellus, Latin for fleece. Once exclusively made of silk, it is has a short, thick
pile fabric. In plain or twill weave. it is used for jackets in the main.
CORDUROY
This familiar thick-ribbed fabric with a cut-pile sur-face is woven with sunken lines running
lengthwise. The origin of the name, thought often taken to be a corruption of French, is uncertain.
MATERIAL Cont.
How to dress like a gentleman- A guide on the materials used to make the suit worn by the true gent.
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