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How to dress like a gentleman- A guide on the materials used to make the suits worn by the gentleman
MATERIAL
WOOL
Pure new wool is the stuff of the traditional, classic suit. People slung sheepskins over their backs
before learning from around 3500 BC to spin and process the fleece. By the Middle Ages, England
and Spain dominated the wool trade. Wool financed early Spanish exploration and it comprised 80
percent of England’s exports in Elizabethan times.
Wool is warm: it insulates, protecting against heat as well as cold. It is water-absorbent, soaking up
perspiration and circulating it back into the environment, and it is also water-resistant thanks to a
waxy fibre-coating. It is hard to set alight, and merely smoulders. It is durable and resilient. It
responds well to a steam iron.
In general, the best wool is produced by merino sheep, a breed of Spanish-Moorish origin
introduced to Australia at the end of the 18th century. Merino wool is fine and very wavy. Among
hundreds of other breeds, long-wool sheep of English origin, such as Cotswolds, are often cross-
bred with the short-fleeced merinos, while Scottish Cheviots make fine tweeds.
As well as class and quality of the wool, distinctions stem from the methods of processing. Woollen
yarns are made from fibres that are carded (separated) and then tangled into a rough, loose mass,
which is then twisted into yarn. Worsted yarns are made by combing the woolen fibres until they lie
straight, then drawing and tightly twisting the smooth yarn; the name comes from the Norfolk village
of Worstead.
Suit fabric may be made from worsted or woolen yarns, or both in combination, or the yarns may be
blended with cotton or silk, or man-made fibres may be introduced for special reasons.
In the weaving process, the threads of yarn are interlaced at right angles to each other. All woven
fabrics are derived from variations of three basic weaves, of which two dominate in garment cloth.
The most simple and common is plain weave, an over-and-under pattern formed by the alternate
interlacing of the warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) yarns. Twill weave is created by interlacing the
warp and weft so that the fabric has a diagonal slant.
FLSNNEL
Famously supple, loosely woven cloth with a lightly-brushed surface. The name is probably of
Welsh origin. There are both carded (woollen) and worsted flannels made of fine merino wool.
Flannel should not be worn continuously over long periods, but allowed time to ‘rest’. It also tends
to peel under heavy friction, which is why it is advisable to have two pairs of trousers for every
matching jacket. Socalled chalk stripe fabrics are always of flannel, sometimes in a variety of blends
with cotton and man-made fibres.
WORSTED SUITINGS
These are made in a range of weights, with a strong tendency towards ever lighter fabrics. Before
the Second World War, the demand was for suitings of 17-20 ounces to the cloth yard. By the
1950s, the average was down to 14-16 ounces and the tendency has continued. Summer suitings
may be of 8 ounces or less.
Fancy worsteds are known by the name given to the distinctive weave of each. They include:
WOOL
Pure new wool is the stuff of the traditional, classic suit. People slung sheepskins over their backs
before learning from around 3500 BC to spin and process the fleece. By the Middle Ages, England
and Spain dominated the wool trade. Wool financed early Spanish exploration and it comprised 80
percent of England’s exports in Elizabethan times.
Wool is warm: it insulates, protecting against heat as well as cold. It is water-absorbent, soaking up
perspiration and circulating it back into the environment, and it is also water-resistant thanks to a
waxy fibre-coating. It is hard to set alight, and merely smoulders. It is durable and resilient. It
responds well to a steam iron.
In general, the best wool is produced by merino sheep, a breed of Spanish-Moorish origin
introduced to Australia at the end of the 18th century. Merino wool is fine and very wavy. Among
hundreds of other breeds, long-wool sheep of English origin, such as Cotswolds, are often cross-
bred with the short-fleeced merinos, while Scottish Cheviots make fine tweeds.
As well as class and quality of the wool, distinctions stem from the methods of processing. Woollen
yarns are made from fibres that are carded (separated) and then tangled into a rough, loose mass,
which is then twisted into yarn. Worsted yarns are made by combing the woolen fibres until they lie
straight, then drawing and tightly twisting the smooth yarn; the name comes from the Norfolk village
of Worstead.
Suit fabric may be made from worsted or woolen yarns, or both in combination, or the yarns may be
blended with cotton or silk, or man-made fibres may be introduced for special reasons.
In the weaving process, the threads of yarn are interlaced at right angles to each other. All woven
fabrics are derived from variations of three basic weaves, of which two dominate in garment cloth.
The most simple and common is plain weave, an over-and-under pattern formed by the alternate
interlacing of the warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) yarns. Twill weave is created by interlacing the
warp and weft so that the fabric has a diagonal slant.
FLSNNEL
Famously supple, loosely woven cloth with a lightly-brushed surface. The name is probably of
Welsh origin. There are both carded (woollen) and worsted flannels made of fine merino wool.
Flannel should not be worn continuously over long periods, but allowed time to ‘rest’. It also tends
to peel under heavy friction, which is why it is advisable to have two pairs of trousers for every
matching jacket. Socalled chalk stripe fabrics are always of flannel, sometimes in a variety of blends
with cotton and man-made fibres.
WORSTED SUITINGS
These are made in a range of weights, with a strong tendency towards ever lighter fabrics. Before
the Second World War, the demand was for suitings of 17-20 ounces to the cloth yard. By the
1950s, the average was down to 14-16 ounces and the tendency has continued. Summer suitings
may be of 8 ounces or less.
Fancy worsteds are known by the name given to the distinctive weave of each. They include:
HOUNDSTOOTH
This twill-weave effect is achieved by intertwining four dark threads with four light threads
(commonly black and white) to create a small checkered pattern that might be said to resemble the
teeth of a dog.
This twill-weave effect is achieved by intertwining four dark threads with four light threads
(commonly black and white) to create a small checkered pattern that might be said to resemble the
teeth of a dog.
BARLEYCORN
The blurry little ‘corn’ triangles that characterize this twill-weave cloth, is achieved by contrasting the
warp and the weft threads. As well as being appropriate for business and general day-wear suiting,
barleycorn in lambswool or cashmere makes a pleasing sports jacket.
The blurry little ‘corn’ triangles that characterize this twill-weave cloth, is achieved by contrasting the
warp and the weft threads. As well as being appropriate for business and general day-wear suiting,
barleycorn in lambswool or cashmere makes a pleasing sports jacket.
HERRINGBONE
Twill - weave with threads running alternately to left and right to form an inverted-V design that cold
be construed as the bones of a fish. This is a popular style for suits and sports jackets.
PINSTRIPE
This classic suit pattern is achieved by using white ,grey or other contrasting yarns in series in a
very fine worsted cloth. Anthracite, light grey, and middle to dark blue is the standard pinstripe
range.
Twill - weave with threads running alternately to left and right to form an inverted-V design that cold
be construed as the bones of a fish. This is a popular style for suits and sports jackets.
PINSTRIPE
This classic suit pattern is achieved by using white ,grey or other contrasting yarns in series in a
very fine worsted cloth. Anthracite, light grey, and middle to dark blue is the standard pinstripe
range.
PICK-AND-PICK (SHARKSKIN)
Smooth, twill - weave worsted suiting with a dark - and - light ‘salt-and-pepper effect. A favourite
with businessmen which has become available in lighter weights.
Smooth, twill - weave worsted suiting with a dark - and - light ‘salt-and-pepper effect. A favourite
with businessmen which has become available in lighter weights.
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