Style Chart
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Suit
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Shirt
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Tie
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Semiformal occasions (opening days, opening of a shop)
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dark, double-breasted, or single-breasted with waistcoat, flap pocket, trousers without turn-ups, double-breasted always with turn-ups
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white, French cuffs, regular collar
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dark ground, discreet pattern, silk rep, crêpe de Chine
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Formal occasions (Small festivities, receptions during the day and in the evening)
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black, double-breasted or single-breasted with waistcoat, flap pockets, trousers without turn-ups, double-breasted always with turn-ups
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white, French cuffs, regular collar
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pearl grey, self-coloured or finely patterned, black for mourning
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Festive occasions during the day (weddings, funerals, receptions)
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morning suit, black or Marengo, single-breasted with waistcoat, flap pockets, morning suit-trousers without turn-ups
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white, French cuffs, regular collar
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pearl grey, discreet pattern, black, white and grey, black for mourning
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Festive indoor occasions in the evening (ballet, theatre, dinner)
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dinner jacket, black, midnight blue, single-breasted or double-breasted with shawl collar or peaked lapels, trousers without turn-ups with silk braids
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white, light blue, écru, French cuffs, wing collar or regular collar, front tuck and concealed placket
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hand-tied bow tie, black, blue, patterned, silk
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Festive occasions in the open air in the evening (summer party, sea voyage)
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dinner jacket, white or ecru single-breasted or double-breasted peaked lapels or shawl collar, welted pockets, dinner jacket trousers
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dinner jacket shirt in white, light blue or êcru
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black dinner jacket bow tie, silk
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Very formal occasions during the day (weddings, funerals, receptions)
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morning suit black, or marengo, peaked lapels, one-button fastening, knee-length tails, trousers without turn-ups in grey, or striped grey waistcoat, black for mourning
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white with regular collar and French cuffs or barrel cuffs
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pearl grey or grey, black and white, plastron to coordinate with the wing collar
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Very formal occasions in the evening (gala, dinner, state receptions )
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tail-coat, peaked lapels faced with silk, tails with middle vents, trousers with double silk braids without turn-ups
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tailcoat shirt with pleated shirt front or piqué front, wing collar, cuffs with bottonholes
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white piqué bow tie, with wing collar, black for mourning
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