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How to dress like a gentleman- A guide on the style of shirts worn like a true English gentleman
PATTERNS
PLAIN
Classic white remains the mark of the gentleman. The terminology relating to white and blue collar
dates from the 19th century, when the white collar distinguished the clerk from the manual worker,
whose circumstances obliged him to dress in blue or some other colour to hide the inevitable dirt.
Though, in point of fact, manual worker, whose circumstances obliged him to dress in blue or some
other colour to hide the inevitable dirt. Though, in point of fact, manual workers in those days
tended to wear no collar at all.
Nowadays every colour imaginable may be employed on business shirts, so long as the tone is
sufficiently muted. Tones for sports shirts can be a shade richer.
STRIPES
Striped sports shirts, popularly known as regatta shirts, became popular in the 1870s. Equipped with
white collar and cuffs, they have since ascended to the heights of sartorial classicism, as witness the
way they are worn by modern American dandy Tom Wolfe.
BENGAL STRIPE
Colourful, striped fabric that originated in India.
END-TO-END
A cotton twill fabric with small patterns in the form of stairs. The warp threads, known as ‘ends’,
alternate between a light and a dark colour.
MADRAS
This plain-weave cotton fabric has something of the appearance of end-to-end. It can also be in twill
weave. Like many cotton fabrics, it originated in India.
TATTERSALL
Checked pattern of vertical and horizontal stripes, usually in two colours upon a light background. It
is named after an 18th-century London horse market where sportsmen forgathered wearing
waistcoats of this pattern.
VICHY CHECK
A two-coloured pattern of small checks popularized in the 1960s. It is more identified with cravats
than with the necktie.
FANCIES
This term embraces all manner of striking designs for sports and leisure shirts, from tropical
Hawaiian prints to paisley patterns.
COLLAR TYPES
Collar flaps are known as ‘points’ and the space between them is the ‘spread’. Today there are
about a half-dozen common variations of the regular collar type, plus one dignified throwback to
more formal times.
TURN-DOWN COLLAR
This is the regular collar. It comes in various forms and size , from short and wide to long and slim.
The version sometimes known as the short point is the standard collar for business wear and the
most versatile, being appropriate to most occasions.
WING COLLAR
A stand-up collar with folded-back points (the wings) that is correct for formal wear with a tailcoat,
dinner jacket or morning coat.
TAB COLLAR
The collar points, which may be pointed or rounded, are constricted by means of a buttoned tab
hidden under the tie-knot.
PIN COLLAR
The pin collar, again either pointed or round, achieves much the same effect as the tab collar, while
affording the wearer an opportunity to discreetly display an item of jewellery. The collar is equipped
with holes for attaching the gold collar pin.
BUTTON-DOWN COLLAR
The collar points are held in place by a button to the shirt. This is the jauntiest collar that one can
wear to the office. It is extremely adaptable, being able to take a full Windsor knot, or a bow tie for
that matter.
A fanciful tale traces its origin to the ingenuity of British polo players irritated by their collars flying in
the wind, but this most American of styles is better sourced across the Atlantic among Ivy League
students of the 1920s. The button-down look combines nonchalance with precision to create an air
of confident, easy-going efficiency that goes down well in the modern business world, hence its
popularity.
FIT
COLLAR
A few simple rules need to be observed, Gentlemen with long necks should select high collars; those
with full necks are advised to chose shallower collars. Care should be taken that the collar is not too
tight.
To correctly assess collar size, hold one end of a tape measure to the throat by the collar button
and let it loosely surround the neck, allowing sufficient room for movement.
SLEEVES AND CUFFS
The sleeve length is measured from the centre of the back yoke to the end of the cuff. Cuffs should
fit closely while leaving room for movement. At least I cm of the cuff should be visible underneath the
suit sleeve.
WAIST
This is a matter of personal discretion. One should note that tight, body-hugging shirts were a
happening of the 1960s, intriguingly the only time in history when there has been such a vogue.
PLAIN
Classic white remains the mark of the gentleman. The terminology relating to white and blue collar
dates from the 19th century, when the white collar distinguished the clerk from the manual worker,
whose circumstances obliged him to dress in blue or some other colour to hide the inevitable dirt.
Though, in point of fact, manual worker, whose circumstances obliged him to dress in blue or some
other colour to hide the inevitable dirt. Though, in point of fact, manual workers in those days
tended to wear no collar at all.
Nowadays every colour imaginable may be employed on business shirts, so long as the tone is
sufficiently muted. Tones for sports shirts can be a shade richer.
STRIPES
Striped sports shirts, popularly known as regatta shirts, became popular in the 1870s. Equipped with
white collar and cuffs, they have since ascended to the heights of sartorial classicism, as witness the
way they are worn by modern American dandy Tom Wolfe.
BENGAL STRIPE
Colourful, striped fabric that originated in India.
END-TO-END
A cotton twill fabric with small patterns in the form of stairs. The warp threads, known as ‘ends’,
alternate between a light and a dark colour.
MADRAS
This plain-weave cotton fabric has something of the appearance of end-to-end. It can also be in twill
weave. Like many cotton fabrics, it originated in India.
TATTERSALL
Checked pattern of vertical and horizontal stripes, usually in two colours upon a light background. It
is named after an 18th-century London horse market where sportsmen forgathered wearing
waistcoats of this pattern.
VICHY CHECK
A two-coloured pattern of small checks popularized in the 1960s. It is more identified with cravats
than with the necktie.
FANCIES
This term embraces all manner of striking designs for sports and leisure shirts, from tropical
Hawaiian prints to paisley patterns.
COLLAR TYPES
Collar flaps are known as ‘points’ and the space between them is the ‘spread’. Today there are
about a half-dozen common variations of the regular collar type, plus one dignified throwback to
more formal times.
TURN-DOWN COLLAR
This is the regular collar. It comes in various forms and size , from short and wide to long and slim.
The version sometimes known as the short point is the standard collar for business wear and the
most versatile, being appropriate to most occasions.
WING COLLAR
A stand-up collar with folded-back points (the wings) that is correct for formal wear with a tailcoat,
dinner jacket or morning coat.
TAB COLLAR
The collar points, which may be pointed or rounded, are constricted by means of a buttoned tab
hidden under the tie-knot.
PIN COLLAR
The pin collar, again either pointed or round, achieves much the same effect as the tab collar, while
affording the wearer an opportunity to discreetly display an item of jewellery. The collar is equipped
with holes for attaching the gold collar pin.
BUTTON-DOWN COLLAR
The collar points are held in place by a button to the shirt. This is the jauntiest collar that one can
wear to the office. It is extremely adaptable, being able to take a full Windsor knot, or a bow tie for
that matter.
A fanciful tale traces its origin to the ingenuity of British polo players irritated by their collars flying in
the wind, but this most American of styles is better sourced across the Atlantic among Ivy League
students of the 1920s. The button-down look combines nonchalance with precision to create an air
of confident, easy-going efficiency that goes down well in the modern business world, hence its
popularity.
FIT
COLLAR
A few simple rules need to be observed, Gentlemen with long necks should select high collars; those
with full necks are advised to chose shallower collars. Care should be taken that the collar is not too
tight.
To correctly assess collar size, hold one end of a tape measure to the throat by the collar button
and let it loosely surround the neck, allowing sufficient room for movement.
SLEEVES AND CUFFS
The sleeve length is measured from the centre of the back yoke to the end of the cuff. Cuffs should
fit closely while leaving room for movement. At least I cm of the cuff should be visible underneath the
suit sleeve.
WAIST
This is a matter of personal discretion. One should note that tight, body-hugging shirts were a
happening of the 1960s, intriguingly the only time in history when there has been such a vogue.
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