How to dress like a gentleman- A guide on the style of overcoat used by the true gentleman: how to dress

STYLE
One must never forget that the prime purpose of any overcoat is to protect the wearer from
inclement weather. This said, there is no reason to sacrifice style for practicality. A good coat
should look good,
Whether it be a simple raincoat or a venerable Chesterfield.
The cosseted, centrally-heated modern lifestyle has reduced our call upon overcoats, and one
observes a tendency to skimp – perhaps to make do with something ‘all-purpose’ , which, alas, does
not quite fit any purpose. While there is no call to go to the other extreme, the gentleman should
allow himself a choice of at least two pieces of quality outerwear of a contrasting nature.
As with suits, double – breasted overcoats have peaked lapels, whereas single – breasted
overcoats have peaked lapels, whereas single – breasted have notched lapels.
In determining the right fit of overcoat, it is essential to wear to the fitting room a jacket. or else a
heavy pullover.
The coat should ordinarily reach beyond the knees, both for the sake of a good line and because
anything less tends to suffer the crumples when sat upon. The sleeves should cover both the jacket
and the shirt sleeves. Gentlemen with low centres of gravity need to beware of a single back vent
which rises high enough to enter the zone of maximum stress.
HAVELOCK
This sleeveless, hip-length cape coat of black woolen fabric is still worn over the tailcoat to complete
a classic formal ensemble. It is named after a British general who died in 1857.
CHESTERFIELD
This classic plain-back, slightly-shaped overcoat makes its presence felt through simple elegance. It
has flap pockets and a breast welt pocket. It may have a single-breasted. The velvet collar is
optional. It takes its name from a 19th-century Earl of Chesterfield.
BRITISH WARM
The military background of this snappy overcoat is clearly visible. Two rows of buttons, slightly
shaped body lines, slanting flap pockets and (usually) epaulets all reflect the original design for
officers in the Great War. Double-breasted, in knee or above knee length, it may be made of fleece
or meltoncloth.
RAGLAN
This popular, loose-fitting overcoat without shoulder seams has full-cut sleeves running up to the
neck. It is generally buttoned through, with notched lapels and cuff straps. It is named after Lord
Raglan, heroic bungler of the Crimean War, and thereupon hangs a tale, or two.
One version has Lord Raglan keeping warm in the frigid Balaclava winter by cutting a hold for his
head in a service blanket, thereby incidentally inventing what became the Raglan cut. This sounds
unlikely for a man obsessed with plumed splendour. Let us rather heed an alternative yarn that he
had his tailor design a coat sleeve to disguise as much as possible his loss of an arm in battle.
LODEN
A double-breasted overcoat of loden cloth , with a front and back yoke. Light, warm and
showerproof, it has become popular for both town and country wear. It may be buttoned or have a
wood-toggle closure. The cut usually features an unstitched part of the armhole to provide extra
room for manoeuvre.
POLO COAT
A modern American classic that owes everything to its British heritage. This costly camel-hair coat is
double-breasted and has patch pockets, cuffs, and a half-belt. It is said to trace its ancestry to the
Edwardian polo fields, when sporting gentlemen had their tailors come up with something to throw
over their shoulders between chukkers. The result was a so-called ‘wait coat’ warm but with a
certain swagger, which caught the attention of the Gatsby set when rich Americans took up polo in
the 1920s. The upshot of this was the ‘polo’ coat, so imbued with casual elegance that some men
are said to be able to carry it off with evening dress.
DUFFLE COAT
This is a square-tailed, three-quarter length coat with hood, made of heavy woolen cloth. A yoke,
patch pockets and toggle fastening are its main features. The name comes from Duffel, a Belgian
town long associated with hard-wearing woolen fabric.
RAINWEAR
Raincoats should be separated into two categories the truly waterproof, and those that are
‘rainproof’ or ‘showerproof’.
Waterproof implies the use of rubberized materials. When it comes to the second category, there
are many methods of making a fabric rain-resistant or water-repellent. They include immersion in a
chemical solution, spraying, or applications of oil or wax.
There is a vast selection of rainwear to suit every taste and purpose. Regrettably, gentlemen do not
always give this due consideration. A double-textured macintosh, for instance, is practical for winter
pursuits, or for a very wet climate, but it is not ideal for sultry conditions or the heat of summer.
A detachable lining, of plaid or fur, will greatly extend a coat’s range of effective service.
In selecting a size, one should always allow for plenty of ‘room’. A raincoat should be slightly longer
than a normal overcoat.

















If you have any reservations don't hesitate to contact us via email or telephone. © 2001-2008 Don's Footwear Online. All rights reserved. Elevator shoes can increase your height Return Policy Security Contact Us Elevator shoes
|