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How to dress like a gentleman- A guide on the of the materials used in the gentlemans overcoat.
MATERIAL
Heavier milled woolen cloths, such as melton, cheviot and the tweeds are traditional for overcoats,
with the choice depending upon both style and occasion. While overcoats of cashmere or vicuna
are gorgeous to wear, they are not nearly as sturdy as those made of sheep’s wool. For this
reason, fabric mixtures are often preferred. The same goes for the camel-hair coat.
WOOL
Wool is a most satisfactory coating material. The natural fat content makes it water-repellent and its
capacity to provide warmth is not lessened by damp conditions.
CASHMERE
A particularly soft and warm coating, combed out of Asian goats Not very hard wearing.
VICUNA
This very rare and valuable undercoat of a high Andes relative of the llama has been called the
wool of kings. If your tastes are royal, indulge yourself, but be aware that it is fragile.
CAMEL HAIR
The tan-to-brown fur from the thick, soft undercoat of the Bactrian camel is extremely practical and
durable.
TWEED
This rough-textured woolen fabric of irregular woolen yarns in many patterns makes a practical,
warm coating material. Harris tweed is spun, dyed and woven by crofters of Scotland’s Western Isles.
SHETLAND
A warm and light mixed-colour wool with a heavy nap. Softer and finer than Harris tweed, it will not
take heavy wear at the elbows and cuffs and is for those who value character in the sportswear.
This homespun comes from islands to the north of the Scottish mainland. Similar wools from
elsewhere that are woven in the same manner are properly called ‘Shetland-wool types’.
LODEN
A light and very warm fabric that is naturally water-repellent due to the high fat content of the type
of wool used . First made in the Tyrolean Alps, where it was named after the ëlodererí, or weaver.
Tradition dictates that it should be in green.
DONEGAL
A tweed first woven by crofters in County Donegal, Ireland.It is distinguished by its knobbly structure.
MELTON
Heavy, slightly fuzzed overcoat fabric, first worn by huntsmen from Melton Mowbray in England.
Fleece coating is similar to Melton in having a napped surface.
HERRINGBONE
The name aptly describes the fine, zigzag pattern of this ribbed twill fabric whose threads slant right
and left like the bones of a fish.
COTTON
Various finishing processes enable cotton to be used as a coating. Distinctively ribbed cotton-
poplin, once mercerized and treated to resist water, makes an easy-care raincoat material.
DOUBLE FACE
A substantial material composed of two layers of fabric bound together; ideal for winter overcoats.
The fabrics may differ, with either side used as the face.
COLOURS
The more formal the occasion, the darker the hue. The Chesterfield expresses its dignity in dark
trey, blue, or black of course.
Navy and camel are traditional for town coats, though both suffer from a tendency to look scruffy
after comparatively light soiling. Sports coats are often in tweed, whose grainy patterns harmonise
with their informality. A black and white herringbone and a Donegal in mixed earthy hues are other
deservedly popular styles.
Raincoats are traditionally in beige, green and brown. The classic stone trenchcoat is felt to mature
with wear , though one must be vigilant that ‘character’ does not become a polite interpretation of
grubbiness. For country wear, blue or green works better than stone
Heavier milled woolen cloths, such as melton, cheviot and the tweeds are traditional for overcoats,
with the choice depending upon both style and occasion. While overcoats of cashmere or vicuna
are gorgeous to wear, they are not nearly as sturdy as those made of sheep’s wool. For this
reason, fabric mixtures are often preferred. The same goes for the camel-hair coat.
WOOL
Wool is a most satisfactory coating material. The natural fat content makes it water-repellent and its
capacity to provide warmth is not lessened by damp conditions.
CASHMERE
A particularly soft and warm coating, combed out of Asian goats Not very hard wearing.
VICUNA
This very rare and valuable undercoat of a high Andes relative of the llama has been called the
wool of kings. If your tastes are royal, indulge yourself, but be aware that it is fragile.
CAMEL HAIR
The tan-to-brown fur from the thick, soft undercoat of the Bactrian camel is extremely practical and
durable.
TWEED
This rough-textured woolen fabric of irregular woolen yarns in many patterns makes a practical,
warm coating material. Harris tweed is spun, dyed and woven by crofters of Scotland’s Western Isles.
SHETLAND
A warm and light mixed-colour wool with a heavy nap. Softer and finer than Harris tweed, it will not
take heavy wear at the elbows and cuffs and is for those who value character in the sportswear.
This homespun comes from islands to the north of the Scottish mainland. Similar wools from
elsewhere that are woven in the same manner are properly called ‘Shetland-wool types’.
LODEN
A light and very warm fabric that is naturally water-repellent due to the high fat content of the type
of wool used . First made in the Tyrolean Alps, where it was named after the ëlodererí, or weaver.
Tradition dictates that it should be in green.
DONEGAL
A tweed first woven by crofters in County Donegal, Ireland.It is distinguished by its knobbly structure.
MELTON
Heavy, slightly fuzzed overcoat fabric, first worn by huntsmen from Melton Mowbray in England.
Fleece coating is similar to Melton in having a napped surface.
HERRINGBONE
The name aptly describes the fine, zigzag pattern of this ribbed twill fabric whose threads slant right
and left like the bones of a fish.
COTTON
Various finishing processes enable cotton to be used as a coating. Distinctively ribbed cotton-
poplin, once mercerized and treated to resist water, makes an easy-care raincoat material.
DOUBLE FACE
A substantial material composed of two layers of fabric bound together; ideal for winter overcoats.
The fabrics may differ, with either side used as the face.
COLOURS
The more formal the occasion, the darker the hue. The Chesterfield expresses its dignity in dark
trey, blue, or black of course.
Navy and camel are traditional for town coats, though both suffer from a tendency to look scruffy
after comparatively light soiling. Sports coats are often in tweed, whose grainy patterns harmonise
with their informality. A black and white herringbone and a Donegal in mixed earthy hues are other
deservedly popular styles.
Raincoats are traditionally in beige, green and brown. The classic stone trenchcoat is felt to mature
with wear , though one must be vigilant that ‘character’ does not become a polite interpretation of
grubbiness. For country wear, blue or green works better than stone
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