How to dress like a gentleman- A guide on the materials used in knitwear for the true gentleman
MATERIALS


The advantages of knitwear include generally fine wearing qualities, shape retention and an elasticity
that makes for supreme comfort. Against this, they snag easily and are sensitive to heat, as all who
have holed out to a flick of hot cigarette ash know to their cost. Holes defy repair, but a threaded
needle pulled through a snag will draw it to the reverse side and  tidy up the situation.

PURE NEW WOOL
Any wool sheared from a live sheep as distinct from being removed from a carcass or reprocessed
from previous use.

LAMBSWOOL
Wool from lambs up to seven months old.The fibres are not only soft but have superior spinning
properties.

GEELONG LAMBSWOOL
Wool from lambs up to five months old. Named after an Australian town.

SHETLAND
This homespun from the Scottish Shetland Islands is famous for its resilient, slightly coarse-textured
knitwear.

CASHMERE
Leaving aside precious vicuna and rare alpaca, the best sweaters are made of cashmere, which is
the wool of a goat. The very best cashmere was said to come from the beards of wild goats caught
clambering over the Himalayan Mountains of Tibet, but China controls Tibet and China exacts prices
that are steep even by cashmere standards.
Knitted cashmere provides warmth without weight, while imparting the softest of touches on skin and
hand. A cashmere sweater can be knitted in ‘single’, which means a single strand of wool, to create
the ideal flat texture upon which to work a cable or similar hummocky stitch. Cashmere dyes easily
and well, though its lovely natural coffee-cream complexion means that it takes most sympathetically
to off-whites, greys, and similar gentle shades.

It has been argued with good cause that those willing or able to afford just one luxury sweater would
do well to pick a classic cable-stitched, four-ply cashmere in cream, with a V-neck. It ’goes’ with just
about anything.

Cashmere comes at a price greater than is apparent on the label. It demands gentle hand-washing, it
does not long endure hard wear, and it has a nasty Pure, ordinary wool may fail the cashmere touch-
test, but it is hardier and consequently more practical, and it can be spun as fine as cashmere.
Lambswool shows off well in a colour cascade from bright and bold to pastel pale.

VICUNA
Best known as the most exotic of all overcoat materials, the extraordinary downy softness of the
Vicuna fleece makes it particularly suitable for luxurious knitwear.

ALPACA
The long, smooth hair from this relative of the South American llama varies in colour from white to
brown to black, of which white is the most prized. Combining extreme softness and lightness with
strength and elasticity, it is knitted into precious shell-stitch sweaters.

ANGORA
The downy hair of the Angora rabbit has great thermal properties and makes lustrous, warm
knitwear. The breed originated in France in the 18th century, but it is now raised primarily in China.
The white, silky coat is sheared every three months to yield up to 500g of wool annually. The material
is so delicate that it is difficult to process, so it is often mixed with merino wool to produce quality
blends.

RAMIE
A fibre similar to flax obtained from a plant native to south-east Asia. It is often blended with wool or
cotton to produce lightweight knitwear that feels cool even in hot weather.

BLENDS
Each of the wool types mentioned above is also available as quality blends, each offering its own
advantages in durability and ease of care.

KNITTING TERMS
The difference between weaving and knitting is that in weaving two distinct threads of yarn, one
vertical and known as the ‘warp’ and the other horizontal, known as the ‘weft’, pass over and under
each other. Knitting has one thread which makes a continuous series of loops. Needles do the
looping , drawing the yarn through a previously formed loop and forming fabric from the series of
chain-like ‘stitches’. In machine knitting, often at extremely high speeds, each stitch is made by a
separate needle.

PLAIN KNIT
A Stitch in which the yarn is pulled forward to form loops.

PURL KNIT
Anw inverse stitch in which the yarn is pulled from face of the fabric towards the back.The reverse of
the plain knit stitch, production horizontal rows.

PLAIN AND PURL
As implied, the first row is knitted plain, the second is purled, and so on. This achieves a smooth
surface and is suitable for all classes of knitwear.

YARN STRENGTH
Lambswool and cashmere are available in different strengths, one-ply to eight-ply.The greater the
yarn strength, the higher the density and durability of the garment. One-ply yarns are exceptionally
light and suitable for summer wear. Four to eight-ply knitwear is winter quality.

INTARSIA
Inlaid design in which the pattern shows in solid colours on both sides of the fabic.

JERSEY
Knitted fabric with slight cording on one side. It may be made of wool or any other fibre or fibreblend.
The term derives from the island of that name. Jersey is also a name commonly applied to tight
woolen sweaters, which were first associated with the island’s fishermen.

FULLY-FASHIONED
A manufacturing process in which the number of stitches can be constantly varied in order to achieve
a desired shape.  This prevents bulging at the seams and also laddering.
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