FIT
After substance, shape has to be carefully considered. Crew, polo, and turtle-necks obscure the
prominent Adam’s apple. They also conceal that wrinkly zone which besets most 40-somethings. A
boat-neck expands puny shoulders. The Raglan-sleeved sweater, with seems that run from armpit to
collar, has the contrary effect; it also gives an illusion of length to short arms and justifies shoulders
that slope too much. Sweaters with some padding in the shoulders assist the pear-shaped person,
but can render the broad-shouldered gentleman top-heavy.
Sweaters with horizontal stripes lend girth to the thin and minimize the height of the tall, but large
gentlemen need to avoid them. Vertical stripes tend to elongate the body and thus have the opposite
effects.
Quite the trickiest questions concern colour, with recent years seeing the rise of the professional
‘colour counsellor’ to assist those with more cash than confidence. Even the most conservative
English gentleman, wary of anything bolder than navy blue, has surely by now become sensitive to
opportunities afforded by the engulfing kaleidoscope of the modern world.
An important first step is to fight the strong male tendency to make block comparisons (the brown-
goes-with-brown mentality) and to think instead in subtler terms of blending shades of a colour.
Nothing is more personal to an individual than those colours which most flatter his person. While a
gentleman may think vaguely of a match for the colour of his eyes, he needs to appreciate the
profound effect that his skin and hair have in determining what will give him that special ‘lift’.
This calls for experimentation and consultation. Try holding variously coloured garments across the
shoulders and compare carefully the effects they have upon the face. Since many of us are colour
blind to some degree, and many more are mentally blind to the realities of the mirrored prospect
before us, this is the occasion to seek the opinion of a respected friend. The occasion, perhaps, to
seek the opinion of a woman.
After substance, shape has to be carefully considered. Crew, polo, and turtle-necks obscure the
prominent Adam’s apple. They also conceal that wrinkly zone which besets most 40-somethings. A
boat-neck expands puny shoulders. The Raglan-sleeved sweater, with seems that run from armpit to
collar, has the contrary effect; it also gives an illusion of length to short arms and justifies shoulders
that slope too much. Sweaters with some padding in the shoulders assist the pear-shaped person,
but can render the broad-shouldered gentleman top-heavy.
Sweaters with horizontal stripes lend girth to the thin and minimize the height of the tall, but large
gentlemen need to avoid them. Vertical stripes tend to elongate the body and thus have the opposite
effects.
Quite the trickiest questions concern colour, with recent years seeing the rise of the professional
‘colour counsellor’ to assist those with more cash than confidence. Even the most conservative
English gentleman, wary of anything bolder than navy blue, has surely by now become sensitive to
opportunities afforded by the engulfing kaleidoscope of the modern world.
An important first step is to fight the strong male tendency to make block comparisons (the brown-
goes-with-brown mentality) and to think instead in subtler terms of blending shades of a colour.
Nothing is more personal to an individual than those colours which most flatter his person. While a
gentleman may think vaguely of a match for the colour of his eyes, he needs to appreciate the
profound effect that his skin and hair have in determining what will give him that special ‘lift’.
This calls for experimentation and consultation. Try holding variously coloured garments across the
shoulders and compare carefully the effects they have upon the face. Since many of us are colour
blind to some degree, and many more are mentally blind to the realities of the mirrored prospect
before us, this is the occasion to seek the opinion of a respected friend. The occasion, perhaps, to
seek the opinion of a woman.
How to dress like a gentleman- A guide on the fitting of knitwear worn by the true English gentleman
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