How to dress like a gentleman- A guide on the style of blazers and jackets worn by the gentleman .
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STYLE
The navy blazer and the tweed jacket loom large in virtually every gentleman’s wardrobe, as they
surely will for the foreseeable future. Indeed, some would regard the classic blazer as their single
most essential item of apparel.
One must, however, place stress on that word ‘classic’, There are constant, ill-advised attempts to
toy with blazer design, as there are constant adaptations of the blazer shape to dubious purpose.
These are to be shunned. The glory of the navy blazer rests with its purity of cut and cloth.
The classic double-breasted blazer has six buttons, side vents, side pockets and a breast pocket,
and peaked lapels with a buttonhole in each. The buttons are metal: brass, gold, or silver. The effect
is as dashing as it is correct. The single-breasted version, with either two or three buttons, is correct
enough and is a most serviceable garment in itself, but it lacks the presence of its celebrated sibling.
The buttons should be plain, or very simply decorated, and the breast pocket must be bare. Badges
only on a breast patch pocket, never as pure decoration, only in case of membership. As to fabric, a
lightweight pure wool is correct, but there are a variety of options. A closely woven worsted with a
slightly raised nap, flannel, or wool serge are all appropriate. Cashmere, too soft for trouser wear, is
a further resplendent possibility.
If the navy blazer is essential, then the tweed jacket is the most loyal of garments, ever reliable and
immensely useful in partnership with a trusty pair of flannel trousers.
The longevity of tweed is the stuff of legend, and clothing lore abounds with tales of tweed garments
handed down the generations, and yet it is subject to abrasion and over time will fray at cuff and
elbow. In consequence of this one weakness, the appropriate as it is traditional, yet to incorporate
patches when none is required, as with a new garment, is a ‘design’ conceit that must be frowned
upon.
Tweeds are no longer the hairy brown monsters they once so often were. Nowadays they come in a
broad range of subtle mixtures, of lovely lovats, flattering, soft blues and greens, and there are
lighter weaves. The mix-and-match rules of casual separates are as obvious as they are simple to
remember and the results will be rewarding, Wear a dark jacket with light trousers, and dark trousers
with a light jacket, Trousers in solid colours go best with a patterned jacket. Think of matching tones
rather than of matching colorus. A soft and a hard tone should not be paired, but soft with soft and
hard with hard. Grey flannel trousers can be worn with most jacket patterns, beige chinos go well with
all sportswear.
The navy blazer and the tweed jacket loom large in virtually every gentleman’s wardrobe, as they
surely will for the foreseeable future. Indeed, some would regard the classic blazer as their single
most essential item of apparel.
One must, however, place stress on that word ‘classic’, There are constant, ill-advised attempts to
toy with blazer design, as there are constant adaptations of the blazer shape to dubious purpose.
These are to be shunned. The glory of the navy blazer rests with its purity of cut and cloth.
The classic double-breasted blazer has six buttons, side vents, side pockets and a breast pocket,
and peaked lapels with a buttonhole in each. The buttons are metal: brass, gold, or silver. The effect
is as dashing as it is correct. The single-breasted version, with either two or three buttons, is correct
enough and is a most serviceable garment in itself, but it lacks the presence of its celebrated sibling.
The buttons should be plain, or very simply decorated, and the breast pocket must be bare. Badges
only on a breast patch pocket, never as pure decoration, only in case of membership. As to fabric, a
lightweight pure wool is correct, but there are a variety of options. A closely woven worsted with a
slightly raised nap, flannel, or wool serge are all appropriate. Cashmere, too soft for trouser wear, is
a further resplendent possibility.
If the navy blazer is essential, then the tweed jacket is the most loyal of garments, ever reliable and
immensely useful in partnership with a trusty pair of flannel trousers.
The longevity of tweed is the stuff of legend, and clothing lore abounds with tales of tweed garments
handed down the generations, and yet it is subject to abrasion and over time will fray at cuff and
elbow. In consequence of this one weakness, the appropriate as it is traditional, yet to incorporate
patches when none is required, as with a new garment, is a ‘design’ conceit that must be frowned
upon.
Tweeds are no longer the hairy brown monsters they once so often were. Nowadays they come in a
broad range of subtle mixtures, of lovely lovats, flattering, soft blues and greens, and there are
lighter weaves. The mix-and-match rules of casual separates are as obvious as they are simple to
remember and the results will be rewarding, Wear a dark jacket with light trousers, and dark trousers
with a light jacket, Trousers in solid colours go best with a patterned jacket. Think of matching tones
rather than of matching colorus. A soft and a hard tone should not be paired, but soft with soft and
hard with hard. Grey flannel trousers can be worn with most jacket patterns, beige chinos go well with
all sportswear.
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