How to dress like a gentleman- A guide on the historyof blazers and jackets worn by the gentleman
JACKETS AND BLAZERS
HISTORY
The name, jacket, derives from jaquet , a 15th century borrowing from French, but the familiar
pocketed jacket is a comparatively recent development.
True, Jane Austin found a ‘shooting jacket’ to be the most becoming of ‘manly dresses’ early in the
century, but it was only from the mid-1800s that the jacket, as distinct from the frock coat or dress
coat, began to come into its own, It was shorter than the coat and it had exposed pockets. It was cut
to an easier. Looser fit , and might be made of tweed or other novel fabric.
As the ‘lounge jacket’ with matching trousers evolved into the lounge suit, other jacket types
proliferated. Two which were to endure were the pleated Norfolk jacket and the reefer, or yachting
jacket.
The Norfolk jacket, which may have been cut first for the guests at one of the Duke of Norfolk’s
hunting parties, combined a relaxed fit with a smart appearance and was immensely popular through
the first decades of the 20th century, usually in tones of reddish-brown, The double-breasted
yachting jacket harked back to a short blue naval jacket named after a reefer, or midshipmen. It also
harked forward to the blazer.
There is a rollicking tale concerning the captain of an HMS blazer fitting out his crew in dark blue
serge jackets with brass buttons for Queen Victoria’s coronation in 1837-ergo, the blazer. Though the
story often appears in sartorial manuals, it has no basis in fact.
Serge or flannel ’sports’ jackets with patch pockets were being worn by cricket clubs and other
sporting groups from 1880s and it became a custom to decorate these with stripes in the club
colours. Blazing bright, some of them were, and so they became known as blazers. The particular
jacket which caused the coining of the word is said to have been in the vibrant colours of the Lady
Margaret Boat Club in Cambridge.
Blazers with flannel trousers and straw boaters became an Edwardian symbol, joined subsequently by
versions in navy blue with club badge on the breast pocket. From the 1920s, the blue blazer and
flannels became an informal classic, just like the tweed jacket.
After the Second World War separates- sports jackets and odd trousers, augmented upon occasion
by orphaned suit jackets-were increasingly worn in place of suits.


















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