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STYLE
A handkerchief may be called upon to perform many functions, but basically there are two, and
these are contradictory. In seeking the ideal solution, one is tempted to invoke the cri de Coeur of
Beau Brummell: “Fine linen, country washing, and plenty of it.”
Certainly, there are purists who hearken to a time when a crisp and generous square of white linen,
simply folded, afforded every gentleman a full measure of style with a maximum of assurance, and
no authority is comfortable with those who display a gorgeous plume of silk while secreting some
base cloth (or wad of paper tissues!) for active duty.
Style is inconsistent with duplicity. It then descends to the vulgar. A handkerchief is not just an
ornament. In the words of Hardy Amies: “It must look as if you use it; and you must.”
The complexion of the handkerchief is another matter of some sensitivity. Some hold that it must be
white, certainly with formal wear, though they will allow blue and pastel colours with business suits.
Others are insistent that white is safe, but no more, and they advocate a bolder approach.
In necessarily contrasting with the jacket, the handkerchief is the final touch that completes the
ensemble. It should not match the tie, but merely tone with it. It should likewise complement the shirt,
or in the case of a striped shirt, the colour of the brighter stripe, but as in all such matters, on must
beware impersonal adherence to fixed conventions. Style is in the end about flair, taste and feeling.
With this in mind, other colour clues to note concern borders, which on a white base draw attention
to quality cloth; checks, which are a classic alternative amenable to lovers of white when dressing
casually; decorative prints, the ‘workman’s cloth’ of the 19th century, which offer unlimited scope for
a dash of imagination on sporty occasions.
Whatever one’s choice, the handkerchief must be of good quality and have a rolled hem. A
monogram, the mark of ownership, is something of a status symbol, but it must be discreetly
stitched and the handkerchief must never be folded in such a way that it shows.
A handkerchief may be called upon to perform many functions, but basically there are two, and
these are contradictory. In seeking the ideal solution, one is tempted to invoke the cri de Coeur of
Beau Brummell: “Fine linen, country washing, and plenty of it.”
Certainly, there are purists who hearken to a time when a crisp and generous square of white linen,
simply folded, afforded every gentleman a full measure of style with a maximum of assurance, and
no authority is comfortable with those who display a gorgeous plume of silk while secreting some
base cloth (or wad of paper tissues!) for active duty.
Style is inconsistent with duplicity. It then descends to the vulgar. A handkerchief is not just an
ornament. In the words of Hardy Amies: “It must look as if you use it; and you must.”
The complexion of the handkerchief is another matter of some sensitivity. Some hold that it must be
white, certainly with formal wear, though they will allow blue and pastel colours with business suits.
Others are insistent that white is safe, but no more, and they advocate a bolder approach.
In necessarily contrasting with the jacket, the handkerchief is the final touch that completes the
ensemble. It should not match the tie, but merely tone with it. It should likewise complement the shirt,
or in the case of a striped shirt, the colour of the brighter stripe, but as in all such matters, on must
beware impersonal adherence to fixed conventions. Style is in the end about flair, taste and feeling.
With this in mind, other colour clues to note concern borders, which on a white base draw attention
to quality cloth; checks, which are a classic alternative amenable to lovers of white when dressing
casually; decorative prints, the ‘workman’s cloth’ of the 19th century, which offer unlimited scope for
a dash of imagination on sporty occasions.
Whatever one’s choice, the handkerchief must be of good quality and have a rolled hem. A
monogram, the mark of ownership, is something of a status symbol, but it must be discreetly
stitched and the handkerchief must never be folded in such a way that it shows.
VARIOUS FOLDING METHODS HAVE BEEN DEVISED. THEY INCLUDE:
THE MULTI-POINT FOLD
It may have two, three or more points. The handkerchief is folded diagonally to the extent
desired, avoiding too geometric a pattern. Most effective with linen or cotton.
It may have two, three or more points. The handkerchief is folded diagonally to the extent
desired, avoiding too geometric a pattern. Most effective with linen or cotton.
THE CRUSHED FOLD
The body of the handkerchief is puffed and inserted downwards to leave exposed a loose
arrangement of points. Suitable for business as well as sporting occasion. Silk responds best to
this arrangement.
The body of the handkerchief is puffed and inserted downwards to leave exposed a loose
arrangement of points. Suitable for business as well as sporting occasion. Silk responds best to
this arrangement.
THE TRIANGLE FOLD
An elegant effect for formal wear can be achieved with all materials.
An elegant effect for formal wear can be achieved with all materials.
THE PUFFED FOLD
This is the crush in reverse, with the puff exposed with casual grace. Silk , again.
This is the crush in reverse, with the puff exposed with casual grace. Silk , again.
THE SQUARE-END FOLD
The straight edge of the handkerchief parallels the rim of the pocket, revealing not more than 2
cm above the pocket. Handkerchiefs of all materials may be folded in this way. Most suitable for
business occasions.
The straight edge of the handkerchief parallels the rim of the pocket, revealing not more than 2
cm above the pocket. Handkerchiefs of all materials may be folded in this way. Most suitable for
business occasions.
How to dress like a gentleman- A guide on how to fold a Handkerchief and dress like a true gent
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